Camino – Day 13
All in all it was a fairly unpleasant day. I left the very pleasant Albergue Santa Fe in Cardeñuela Riopico at about 7:30am with clear skies and cool temps. The first few kilometers took me along a country road with roosters crowing and church bells ringing. But fairly quickly I was walking on the almost nonexistent shoulder of a busy road and things went downhill from there. I was following the occasional Camino marker but the route was not matching the map I had looked at before setting out. What I realize now is that highway construction must have re-routed me onto an alternative path which I had very intentionally planned to avoid. Coming into the eastern outskirts of the very large city of Burgos the Camino markers disappeared entirely. I knew I was heading in the right general direction, but I’m pretty sure I missed a turn at some point. I encountered a kind and helpful local who managed to communicate that I just needed to keep on keeping on and eventually I would reach the Cathedral of Burgos (whereupon he showed me several photos of where I was headed – I’m pretty sure he has given these directions to more than one befuddled peregrino). So off I went, walking along what appeared to be the main east-west street through Burgos. And it went on for a long time through what I can only describe as a fairly unattractive city. Finally, after more than an hour without seeing any Camino markers (which are usually almost ubiquitous, especially in the larger cities) I finally saw one just a few blocks before arriving at the very magnificent cathedral. I stopped long enough to take a quick tour (see photo link below), and then managed to re-locate the Camino (complete with markers), and off I went. Once out of the city it felt extremely refreshing to be walking along a country path again. That lasted for several kilometers before the path began carrying me next to busy highways. Eventually, after navigating my way over, under, and around a busy convergence of several busy highways, I found myself once again on a country path which brought me at last to the village of Tardajos, where I found lodging for the night at the Casa de Beli alberge. After a shower, a load of laundry, and a glass of vino tinto, I feel almost restored. What the rest of the day has in store for me will be revealed in good time. For now it is enough to simply be here (and not back in Burgos).
Here is a link to today’s photos – https://photos.app.goo.gl/tR5WFNpoM4RGLpJE8