Camino – Day 16

Another really lovely day on the Camino. 29 km – mostly on paths through the countryside. Yesterday I walked all morning in the pouring rain, with heavy winds coming straight into my face most of the way. It had its own kind of charm (mostly because I had decided I was going to enjoy it), but I’d be lying if I said I didn’t enjoy today’s change of conditions. The temperature was a bit chilly this morning and the wind was blowing, so I had to put on my rain jacket to stay warm, but there was no rain and the trail was dry. Up and down over rolling hills, through varied landscapes, the distance between pueblos was further than has been true up until now. Fewer peregrinos (pilgrims) than yesterday, I was often the only person in sight. Today’s surprises included extensive fields of sunflowers, several kilometers of walking next to a lovely canal, a section of alternative Camino route that took me by a river instead of the highway, and a arbol de manzana (apple tree) full of beautiful (and photogenic) manzanas.

I’ve settled into a comfortable routine: get up about 6 and pack up, start walking about 7:30 (sunrise is about 8), walk for an hour or so and find somewhere to get a bite of desayunos (breakfast), then walk on, finish the day after 4 to 6 hours of walking (20 to 30 km), find an alberge that has room for me (doesn’t always happen on the first try – there are usually at least a couple in each pueblo), take a shower (which always feels fabulous – but I do look forward to using a “real” towel instead my light-weight, quick drying, extremely thin thing I am currently referring to as my towel), explore the pueblo for a few minutes (doesn’t usually take very long), then find somewhere to order a vino tinto (red wine) and a snack while I process photos and compose these reflections, have dinner, go to bed, and then begin again the next morning. It’s a simple life and feels very lovely.

I have now walked over 360 kilometers, and sometime in the next couple days I will reach the halfway mark between St. Jean and Santiago. I may treat myself to a rest day and/or a private room. We shall see. But in the meantime my plans include continuing to put one foot in front of the other, and remaining open to the amazing gifts which the Camino keeps sending my way.

Buen Camino.

Here is a link to photos from today – https://photos.app.goo.gl/8kQUzwuEzoFPBoeX7